For the record, I have to say "boat" quietly around Denise because the sailing gene that both her parents had did not reach her.
Since arriving in Shetland, we have received numerous recommendations to go on a Noss boat tour. What we did not realize is that there are several options for Noss boat tours, but we settled on the longest running one, Seabirds-and-Seals. The company lived up to its name as we saw a multitude of seabirds, and a few seals up close.
Lerwick is very crowded with all the foot traffic from the Tall Ships, so we weren't sure about how long it would take to get to our boat. The email said to be there by 12:15. All our worries were for naught as we just had to go down the walkway set aside for those getting on boats on Victoria Pier, down a gangway, and step right on. I didn't have any difficulty getting on and off the boat, much to my relief and being there early meant I got my choice of seats!
Denise came with us and was comforted by my ease on the boat, and stayed to see us off.
The first part of the tour would be of interest to those who watch Shetland. We sailed right past the Lodberrie, which is better known as D.I. Jimmy Perez's house.
Off to the high seas, which were really not that high. We got a lovely sea view of Lerwick out of the harbour. We also got a good view of the Island of Bressay, whose ferry we've been watching from our window. We get a small view of Bressay from our flat but this was much better. Also, we saw the Bressay lighthouse up close. It was another one designed by Robert Louis Stevenson's father, and the one he built right after completing Muckle Flugga on Unst.
The Seabird (capitalized as that was the name of the boat) experience started with some seagulls on the rocks. As we live in Thornbury, we're no strangers to the calls of seagulls. Soon we saw the first of many Shetland Shags who actually glow an odd green though Laura failed to capture that in the picture below.
Next we passed Orkney Man's Cave, which we were supposed to go into on the way out but someone beat us there.
I should mention, we were advised when we boarded where to sit if we didn't want to get soaked. The spray was constant! I'm glad I sat where I did and avoided coming home covered in salt water.
The seabirds in Shetland are pretty clever, as they must've recognized the boat. Our host was throwing special bird biscuits up in the air to convince them to come closer. The bravest birds were the great skuas who came rather close to the Seabird, but failed at catching a biscuit.
Behind the great skuas came the gannets. We were lucky to see as many was we did as they were the opposite of decimated (9 out of 10 rather than 1 out of ten) were killed last year by the avian flu. Gannets can have a wingspan of up to 6 feet, and dive very gracefully into the water.
Despite the loss of so many gannets, I think every single one of them who survived came back to nest on Bressay and Noss. They were everywhere on the cliffs. The most interesting fact about the gannets is their blue eyes, but, according to our host, if they survived the avian flu the eyes go black.
Guillemots also made an appearance but they were camera shy.
Baby guillemots are called jumplings, because they literally jump out of the nest when they're ready to leave. It's like, "I'm outta here mum! Hasta la vista!"
Back to the open water, more gannets came looking for a snack.
Here's where I learned we picked the best possible boat tour for Laura and me. Halfway through the trip, we stopped in an inlet and had a coffee break. The wind was chilly so even though I am always happy to see coffee, I was even happier this time. It was good coffee too!
The Island of Noss, which is on the far side of Bressay to Lerwick, is a nature reserve and has been since 1935. The last permanent resident on Noss left in 1939 but for 6 months of the year, when the birds return and nest, there are two wardens who live on the island.
Previously, residents of the island and the house in the above picture, bred Shetland ponies. Sadly, there was not a one on the tour today, though there were some very brave sheep standing right on the edge of many of the cliffs.
Something I learned today is that a group of shags is called a flight or gulp. I choose to use gulp because it's more amusing. Here's a gulp of shags hanging out for us to admire.
The gannets and skuas were rewarded for following us because our host, and the young girl on the trip, threw fish for them to catch. They were much more adept at catching and diving for the fish than they were at catching the biscuits. Laura would like to apologize for there not being any pictures as it was far too entertaining to watch live to pull out her phone. Here are some shags and seagulls to make up for it.
On the way back, we sailed through Giant's Leg. It is an archway where I think sailors go to prove how close they can get to rocks without actually hitting them. I could've reached out and touched the walls on the way by. I didn't though, because I couldn't believe how sharp-edged those rocks were. I would've thought they'd be worn down by the sea, but no, they were as sharp as ever.
We also made it into Orkney Man's Cave, so called as a man from Orkney tried to hide from press gangs there long ago, or so the legend says.
Supposedly, shags live there but we didn't see any. On the way in, we did briefly see a seal but it was camera shy like the guillemots.
It was time to head back into Lerwick where we got a sea-view of the Tall Ships currently overtaking every single free berth in all of east coast of Shetland Mainland.
One slip not available was where the ferry to mainland Scotland was. We've only briefly seen the ferry, so it was interesting to see another view of it.
Like the viking on the ferry indicates, mainland Scotland is that way.
Now it is time for the second part of the name of the tour. Already having seen plenty of seabirds, it was time to see some seals. While there weren't many, the few there were put on a good show, coming right up to the Seabird to say hello.
Finally, it was back to our dock, where Denise was waiting for us. After she did some shopping on Commercial Street, while we were at sea, she talked her way past security so she could come and greet the Seabird. For everyone who knows Denise, this is not a surprise.
When everyone went their separate ways, we went to get some coffee from Blyde Welcome and when Laura came out of the coffee shop, there was a woman ringing the doorbell of our flat. Low and behold, member number 3 of the Shetland Family History Society, Elizabeth Angus, had taken the chance to stop by and see if we were in. She came in for a visit and watched some of the parade down the Esplanade from our window. There have been arrangements made for us to go visit her for coffee and sweets on Friday.
Overall, a busy, educational, familial, and friendly day.
For the record, I am still having eye trouble, so Laura is typing. She added in her own comments throughout. Not being the one typing, I cannot stop her.
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