The day started off very slowly. We were to be ready for the ever organized, intrepid, fountain of information, Jolene the tour guide, at 9:30. We didn't quite make it. Fortunately, Jolene is also a fountain of patience. If you ever come to Shetland, Jolene is worth her weight in gold and can be found through Island Vista Tours.
Once we made it downstairs and to the car, our day went like a whirlwind after that.
Today's destination was South Mainland, which is where Denise's family is from, specifically Dunrossness. Jolene even prepared Bairnson-related content for our tour today, but more of that later on in the blog.
Our first major stop was St. Ninian's Isle, where there is a rather famous tombolo, a spit of sand that connects the mainland with St. Ninian's Isle (now uninhabited). It's the largest tombolo in Europe. At high tide, the tombolo is underwater. Apparently, a number of tourists get stuck on the wrong side of the tide. That's all right, as the isle is famous for treasure. Good luck everyone!
After St.Ninian's Isle, we continued on a number of one lane roads (with two-way traffic) where we faced off against George Russell-wannabes, which Jolene navigated with aplomb. There were also sheep on the road. Yell sheep may be stupid, and Walls judgmental, but South Mainland sheep understand they can't take on cars.
We stopped briefly as Jolene spotted a beach with a herd of seals. We listened to them talk to each other for a few minutes and Jolene and Laura counted 15 of them. Not all of them were kind enough to bunch together for a picture. Here's some of them though.
Next, we went to the tiniest spot called Eastshore which is a part of South Voe, Dunrossness, past the Yacht Club. This was a special trip for Denise as Jolene had discovered a number of ruins near the water. Since this is the only place in the area with the name Eastshore, it meant we were likely looking at the birthplace of Captain William Bairnson, Denise's Second Great Grandfather. That Jolene was able to locate the place is proof Jolene is a very valuable contributor to our trip. Denise will always remember seeing Eastshore.
Off to the Sumburgh Hotel, where I had an excellent cup of coffee and the ladies went to Jarlshof. Jarlshof is a settlement that was discovered when a storm uncovered it. This archeological site shows several different ages from the Bronze Age, through the Iron Age, to the vikings, to medieval times, and finally the 16th century onward. Laura went in and out of the old ruins, while Jolene filled Laura and Denise in on the differing architecture of the ages.
It should be mentioned, on the way between the Sumburgh Hotel, and Jarlshof is maybe a 50 metre walk. Laura got very distracted during those 50 metres by some Shetland ponies.
As for me, I sat in the restaurant at the Sumburgh Hotel periodically getting a glimpse of the ladies' coats while they were off on their tour. When they returned, we all had a wonderful lunch and more excellent coffee. It should be noted from the hotel we could see our next destination, the Sumburgh Head Lighthouse.
Now I digress, nine years ago when I was last in Shetland, I did not make it to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse. Therefore, I did not see puffins. I have watched puffins on the webcam every summer since, and had to endure teasing about going all the way to Shetland and not seeing a single puffin.
Well now, that is over! We had the good fortune to see numerous puffins, and even two pufflings (really, that is what they call baby puffins). The puffins were smaller than I expected and they reminded me of penguins, as if they were the transition between flightless and flying birds. They were just as attractive as expected. At their closest, the puffins were only 6 feet from me.
What was amazing, was that Jolene, a native Shetlander had never seen a puffling in person, and yet the day I finally make it to see the puffins, I get to see two!
Here are the three of us at the puffin-viewing point:
It was certainly a bucket list moment.
We ambled up to the lighthouse proper, and learned about its history, and heard the foghorn. The museum room smells like the equipment is ready to use at a moment's notice!
Once we were done reading about the history, we went to the south-facing viewing point, where we enjoyed a view of a salmon boat, and a tall ship making its way to Lerwick for this week's festivities. The fresh air was brisk and refreshing for all of us.
Here's the three of us just taking a moment to "take the air."
Once we had our fill of fresh air, by that I mean chilly wind, we departed to head back north toward Lerwick, but not before our wonderful guide surprised us with a couple of detours. The first was the Crofthouse Museum, which keeps an old croft house as it was when the residents lived there in the 1870's. Last time I was in Shetland, I was told that the croft house was last inhabited in the 1960's. Also, Denise's family once lived there.
A few things about the Crofthouse Museum: the first is duck. Most of the doors are less than 5 feet tall. Laura learned that the hard way while going through the barn to the but and ben. The second is that the barn, stalls, but, and ben (the living room and bedroom) are all a part of one building. Keeping the animals in a section of the croft house was crofter's way to help heat it.
The second detour crossed something off Laura's bucket list. She petted not one, not two, but four Shetland ponies. Jolene knows their owner so she said it would be all right. Laura was thrilled she got to pet Shetland ponies whilst in Shetland! Finally, after 11 days here, she succeeded in one of her major goals.
Shetland ponies abounded today as on the way back to Lerwick, the total of ponies seen equaled 42: a significant number to those who have read Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy.
Once back in Lerwick, Laura and Denise (with the guidance of Jolene) returned the car to Bolt's Car Hire, as a lot of the streets in Lerwick will be shut down for the Tall Ships, negating the need for the car. We will now be out and about in Lerwick and dependent on taxis, and, hopefully, Jolene again.
Totals for today:
Sheep: 4 million
Seals: 15
Shetland Ponies: 42
Shetland Ponies pet: 4
Puffins seen: more than 30
Pufflings seen: 2
In order to give credit where credit is due, Laura Carre with minimal help from me, has completed the last two days' posts. Laura says the help was more than minimal and since she is typing this, I cannot disagree with her.
No comments:
Post a Comment